Oregon - Mount Hood (3,426m)

When: 2017.05.26

Route: standard

On the summit: 15:00

In late May of 2017 my climbing partner Weiwei and I climbed Mount Hood, a potentially active stratovolcano located about 50 miles east-southeast of Portland, Oregon. At 3,429 meters, Mount Hood is not only the highest mountain in Oregon, but also one of the loftiest in the United States based on its prominence. We chose to tackle the south route up the mountain, which begins at Timberline Lodge and proceeds up the Palmer Glacier to Crater Rock, a large prominence at the head of the glacier.

We spent the night in our Toyota Matrix at the Timberline Lodge parking lot, waking up to clear blue skies on the day of our climb. After a quick breakfast, we gathered our climbing gear and made our way to the ski lift, hoping to ride it to the top of the Palmer Glacier. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to ride the lift due to not being the skiers. Weiwei was determined to rent skis so we look like "skiers", and cache them at the top for the climb, but I convinced her to abandon the idea and just stick to the climb.

We set off from the parking lot at 8:30 a.m., and made our way up the Palmer Glacier towards Crater Rock. From there, we followed the Hogsback ridge, a narrow ridge spanning from Crater Rock to the approach to the summit, across the Coalman Glacier. As we made our way along the Hogsback, we were treated to stunning views of the surrounding area, including the surrounding peaks of the Cascade Volcanic Arc.

Eventually, we reached the bergschrund, a crevasse where the Coalman Glacier separates from the summit rock headwall. It was fully filled by snow, so it was not hard to cross it. From there, it was a short climb up to the Pearly Gates, a gap in the summit rock formation, and then onto the summit plateau and the summit proper. Despite carrying standard gear for glacier travel, we didn't end up needing it as the snow conditions were just right - not too hard or too soft. The Pearly Gates presented no technical challenge, although the massive snow and ice hanging above did look intimidating.

We reached the summit at 15:00, and were greeted by panoramic views of the surrounding area. We especially appreciated the fact that the mountain was always in front of us, allowing us to fully enjoy the scenery. After spending some time at the summit, we began our descent, returning to the Timberline Lodge parking lot by 17:50.

We were grateful for the clear weather and optimal snow conditions, which made for a enjoyable and safe climb.

Mount Hood - the highest peak in Oregon, became our 7th U.S. State High Point.